On The Trails of Marco Polo.... Part II

The Leifeng Pagoda overlooking the city from Sunset Hill is another attraction in Hangzhou. Originally built in the year 977, all that remains of the original pagoda is the crumbling foundation, to be viewed from outside the glass case that it is housed in.

Leifeng Pagoda

The Pagoda Remains Memorial Museum is at the bottom floor of the pagoda. With escalators and elevators, a totally new pagoda sits on top of the foundation. There is not much to see within the pagoda itself. It was most recently rebuilt in year 2000. However, the view of the city skyline and the vast lake is one of the best from here. The reflection of the beautifully lit pagoda in the evening and night in the lake waters gives a good view to enjoy.

Pagoda view at dusk

A few miles outside Hangzhou, tucked away in the hills west of the West Lake, the world famous Lingyin temple, boasts of a history of 1,600 years and is home to the country’s largest statue of Sakyamuni, rising 24.8 meters into the sky. 

Lingyin, meaning “heart of the soul’s retreat”, is one of the three oldest and most famous temples in China. There are hundreds of Buddhist stone statues carved into the cliffs in the “Peak Flying from Afar”.  This depicts very clearly the influence of Buddhism there in China as in the rest of Southeast Asia. It is very much evident that the people here have a great reverence for Lord Buddha. They prostrate before Buddha with all the humility and respect. We were lucky to be there when the evening prayer, much like the Indian “arti”, was being performed by the monks. They were 80-100 in numbers and were going round and round for about half an hour in three rows around the massive statue of Buddha humming a very soothing prayer. All of us (the visitors) were watching and soaking all this to our memories.

Monks prostating

Monks doing their aarti

Hangzhou is also known as the “China’s Tea Capital”. The Longjing tea is one of the most famous teas in China. It is a green tea, enjoyed by all here and taken several times a day. The green tea is hand plucked.  The tea plucked in the month of March is most expensive while the one plucked in April and May is a little cheaper.

Longjing tea gardens

Longjing tea, a kind of green tea

We enjoyed the tea at a local farmer’s house in Longjing village after visiting the tea gardens there on the slopes of the hill. The restaurants there were doing a roaring business. The city is also a blessed land of silk and sericulture with a China Silk Museum, China silk town and Du Jinsheng Embroidery Museum. Hangzhou is also famous for pearls after green tea and silk.

On The Trails of Marco Polo.... Part I

This is our second visit to China, and after going around Beijing, seeing the beautiful Beijing Capital Museum, Confucius temple and Art Galleries in 798, Neelima and Maulik planned a visit to the beautiful city of Hangzhou in the southeast of China. 

Hangzhou is a main city of the Yangtze River Delta. Located on the Hangzhou Bay, it's barely180 kilometres southwest of Shanghai. For over a 1000 years, Hangzhou had been one of the most powerful and prosperous cities of China, in part also due to its beautiful natural scenery. Hangzhou was the capital of China in olden days, before it was shifted to Beijing. 

The Venetian merchant Marco Polo supposedly visited Hangzhou in the late 13th century. He referred to the city as "beyond dispute the finest and the noblest in the world....The number and wealth of the merchants, and the amount of goods that passed through their hands, was so enormous that no man could form a just estimate thereof."

The renowned 14th century Moroccan explorer Ibn Battuta visited Hangzhou and said it was "the biggest city I have ever seen on the face of the earth."

Today Hangzhou is one of the most important tourist cities in China, famous for its natural beauty and historical and cultural heritages.  

A two hour morning flight to the city from Beijing by Air China was smooth with a vegetarian breakfast (by choice) served on board was refreshing. On arrival at the airport, it was a revelation that the airport is quite big, sleek and modern with all the amenities and handles domestic and international flights, including flights to Delhi(!) on Ethiopian Airlines.

The temperature outside was pleasant, at around 17 degree Celsius. We stayed at the Ramada Plaza Hotel, and we were surprised to learn that its Chinese nomenclature Hai Hua Hotel was also inscribed along with. Perhaps it is customary here to give everybody a Chinese name, including the persons who come here to work.

Hangzhou is a modern, well planned city with wide roads, side roads, lanes for the cyclists and zebra crossings for the pedestrians. Tree plantations along the roads are a treat for the eyes and enhance the beauty. A very pleasant sweet scent drifts from the gold petals of Osmanthus flowers over miles, making it ideal for some quiet reflection. As long as you walk around, the enchanting aroma will linger on.

The city is blessed with the West Lake, Xi Hu (pronounced ‘she who’), measuring almost 3 Km by 3 Km. It is the most famous scenic sight. Within the lake area itself are various islands and causeways, while the shores are home to endless parks. “A voyage on this lake offers more refreshment and pleasure than any other experience on earth...,” so said Marco Polo.

A visit to the Xixi National Wetlands Park is a great way to see birds and other wildlife. The birds are especially beautiful and varied.

A boat ride in the park is an exhilarating experience with stoppages at the islets where you can have local fruit, like the fiery red Persimmon from the vendors. A walk around the lake or a ride on bicycle on well-maintained pavements and tracks is memorable, especially in the morning, when people of all ages, children, young adults,  middle-aged and senior citizens are roaming around the lake, taking a walk or doing various types of exercises, practicing tai chi or martial arts or yoga and even dancing.

People doing Tai chi on the banks of lake Xi Hu

There were others who were enjoying and passing their time playing cards. We saw that some people had brought their own food and the vendors were there selling breakfast snacks.

Local fruit, including Buddha's hand

A boat on the lake

Another curious observation was that some old people with long paint brushes and a can of water were busy doing calligraphy on the tiled floor. Since water is used instead of paint, it has a short life. Communication was a barrier because of the language problem, but it was apparent that they were indulging in some sombre thoughts or contemplating over the wise sayings of the saints. Everyone was completely relaxed and appeared to be happy go lucky by nature. The cool temperatures of the morning with all the varied activities on the shores of the lake were a great experience for us to relax and carry good memories with us.

The evening visit to the lake gave another glimpse of its beauty. There is a musical fountain. Rising about 100 meters into the sky, the fountain is a perfect combination of light, water and a fine collection of musical masterpieces.

A beautiful view of musical fountain on lake Xi Hu

It is best appreciated at night, when the colourful streams shoot into the sky accompanied by beautiful music and giving the feeling of dancing waters. The crowds wait anxiously for the fountains and it is a beauty worth a visit once one is in the city.